Cynthia Erivo delivers a standout performance as Elphaba in Jon M. Chu’s musical fantasy film ‘Wicked.’ The lead character begins the story as an outcast who is shunned because of the green color of her skin. Nonetheless, despite the odds stacked against her, Elphaba manages to carve out an identity for herself and unveil the real potential of her magical powers while at Shiz University. There, she also meets Glinda, a high-spirited people-pleaser whose initial rivalry with the other woman soon turns into a profound friendship.
Yet, their bond is put to the test once they undertake a trip to meet the revered Wizard of Oz. The film builds upon the thematic significance of the green coloring of Elphaba’s skin as an intrinsic part of the culturally iconic character. For the same reason, Erivo’s transformation into her on-screen Wicked Witch of the West self presents a point of interest with an intriguing story behind it.
Cynthia Erivo Wanted a Practical Approach to Achieve Elphaba’s Look
From the get-go, Cynthia Erivo cast her preference for practical efforts when it came to donning the character of Elphaba. For the actress, practical makeup—as opposed to post-production magic—presented the ideal choice since it allowed her the ability to better connect with her on-screen character. Therefore, she remained a persistent advocate against the usage of CGI to bring Elphaba’s green coloring to life. The ‘Wicked’ star elaborated on her decision in a conversation with People.
“I really wanted for her (Elphaba’s) skin to feel textured,” Erivo shared. “When you look at it, there’s freckles, and there’s tone, shade, just like skin would be. She has these green eyes that come from the genetic makeup of who she is, and it isn’t just on her, it’s in her — part of the essence of who she is.” Consequently, the film opts for a more practical makeup route in order to achieve the distinct green-skinned look for the central witch.
Finding Elphaba’s Perfect Shade of Green Presented a Daunting Challenge
The practical approach to Elphaba’s skin color ultimately proved to be an exceptional addition to ‘Wicked,’ the cinematic adaptation. Yet, the road to perfecting the look through makeup was initially a demanding one. When on the hunt for the ideal makeup product, lead Hair and Makeup Artist Frances Hannon had to keep specific criteria in mind. A natural, transfer-proof, long-lasting finish that complemented Cynthia Erivo’s features was one of the more obvious benchmarks. Additionally, Hannon also had to worry about how the makeup would react to changes in the surroundings.
Given the scope of Elphaba’s many adventures throughout the film, Erivo’s makeup had to work in a variety of lighting. Fortunately enough, Hannon was able to find the ideal pigmentation in a Canadian cream eyeshadow. Even though the product itself was discontinued, the makeup artist was able to use it to recreate the shade and acquire the perfect product for the job. Notably, David Stoneman, a recognizable name in the makeup manufacturing and development industry, helped Hannon through this process.
“He (Stoneman) took the base out of the little eye shadow, which was a neon yellow — just some drops of it — and added to the green shade,” Hannon explained in an interview with Variety. “That was the perfect shade. It worked in every light. Also, you could put it on very thin, and it would stay green.” Therefore, once the product was secured, the makeup artist was able to achieve Elphaba’s complexion through an extensive routine, which included a green primer, airbrushing, contouring, freckles, and more.
Elphaba’s Appearance Required Hours in the Makeup Chair
Since ‘Wicked’ uses zero CGI to turn Cynthia Erivo into the Wicked Witch of the West—at least in terms of physical appearance—the bulk of the responsibility fell on hair, makeup, and wardrobe. Naturally, the process of covering the actress in seamless green makeup to transform her complexion in Elphaba’s remained a time-consuming one. Reportedly, Erivo often found herself on the makeup chair for hours on end, with the task taking more than three to four hours on average.
Additionally, Erivo—who has numerous ear piercings in real life—wore prosthetic ears and wigs with micro-braids to complete the look. Ultimately, the complicated technique translated fabulously on the screen, infusing the character’s physicality with a believable sense of authenticity. Moreover, as shared by Erivo’s castmates, her “greenified” presence on the set during filming added to the make-believe Oz’s magical sense of realism.
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